Keratolytics for manicure: types, methods of application, brands

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How nice it is to look at well-groomed women's hands. Recently, the so-called “European” manicure has been widely used, which does not require the use of a cutting tool, and the nail skin is removed using special preparations. We will talk about means for removing cuticles without cutting in this article. We will take a detailed look at how to properly use a cuticle remover and review the products with reviews about them.

Why do you need a keratolytic in manicure?

In the popular techniques of classic edged, hardware, and European unedged manicure, softening and removal of the cuticle is required at different stages. This task is accomplished by special means – keratolytics. They are also called removers or softeners.

The principle of action of the funds can be traced in the name itself. The word keratolytic is derived from two parts: “keratin”, which means protein, and “lysis” - the process of dissolution.

The products soften and dissolve keratin, which is a structural part of the skin, hair and nails, making it easier for the specialist to process the cuticle and remove pterygium around the nail. The skin of the cuticle and pterygium, softened or turned into a homogeneous “mush,” can be easily removed using a pusher, an orange stick, or cut off with nail scissors or tongs.

The keratolytic significantly reduces the time required for hand treatment by a master in the salon or at home, ensuring a well-groomed aesthetic appearance of the skin around the nails after the procedure.

In different manicure techniques, the use of removers or softeners may differ in the order of the stage of action on the skin, as well as in composition.

Cuticle Care Rules - A Guide to Products and Procedures

How to choose

What factors to pay attention to when choosing a suitable remover:

• If you are purchasing a product for home use, it is better to buy a household gel. Professional products can be very aggressive in their effects, so without the appropriate skill, you can get a burn or inflammation, redness of the skin of the nails.
• Choose a product from a manufacturer that you have at least heard of. There is no need to rely on luck and choose a gel from an unknown but very cheap Chinese brand. This can cause harm to your nails and hands.
• It is best to choose products that contain vitamins and healthy natural supplements. This way you will not only deal with the cuticles and give your hands a neat look, but will also benefit your nails.
• Check the expiration date of the product.
• It is better to purchase the gel in a specialized store or pharmacy. As a rule, in such places the goods are stored correctly and have all the certificates. The likelihood of running into low-quality products in this case will be minimal.

In the video, how to choose a gel for removing cuticles:

As you can see, using gel to remove cuticles is not at all difficult. Hands quickly and safely acquire a well-groomed appearance; there is no need to fiddle with dangerous cutting tools. Therefore, if you want to switch from a cut manicure to a European one, then first of all choose a suitable remover - and our tips will help you with this. You may also be interested in gel polish manicure kits with a lamp.

Types of keratolytics used in manicure

To choose the optimal product, the specialist needs to understand the principle of the effect of keratolytics on the skin. Softening of keratin is carried out by alkalis, acids, urea or urea. They are the main structural components of removers. In a professional cosmetics store for manicure, you can choose the following options for keratolytics:

• Alkaline;
• Acid;
• Based on urea or carbamide.

1. Alkaline keratolytic was one of the first options to hit the market. It is the most aggressive in its effects on the skin and requires the use of a neutralizer after use. This is necessary in order to return the Ph level to its original level, preventing further destruction of keratin.
2. Acidic keratolytics for manicure have replaced alkaline ones as they are softer and more gentle in their effects.
3. The third generation is urea-based softeners. They do not destroy keratin, but only nourish it and soften it, lifting dead skin particles and facilitating their further removal.

The division into acid and alkaline keratolytics is carried out according to the Ph level. Indicators from 5.5 to 7 Ph are considered neutral. Everything below is acid, and everything above is alkali.

The higher or lower the Ph value is from neutral on the scale, the higher or lower the acidic or alkaline properties of the softener.

Which cuticle remover is best?

You should choose the format and composition of the remover, focusing, firstly, on your skin type, secondly, on the style of manicure that you prefer, and thirdly, on the advice of an experienced nail art specialist.

If you are just starting your acquaintance with removers, then start with the most gentle options, for example, oil ones. It is better to exclude acidic compounds until you become familiar with this area.

Be sure to check the composition before using it for the first time. Apply a small amount and see if there is a reaction. And to be completely sure, it is better to contact an experienced manicurist who will help you choose the products that are right for you.

Alkaline removers for manicure

The most intense compositions. Usually the name of a keratolytic with alkali contains the prefix “Express” or “intensive”.

They dissolve the keratin of the cuticle and pterygium in 2-3 minutes, and it can be easily removed from the surface of the nail. Alkaline removers come complete with a neutralizer or must be purchased additionally. You can take a universal neutralizer that is suitable for all types of keratolytics based on alkalis and acids.

The main active components of alkaline keratolytic are soda ash, caustic potash and EDTA. In addition to them, there are additives that are designed to moisturize and nourish dry skin - oils, herbal extracts, vitamins and minerals.

Solutions and decoctions of medicinal herbs

Another well-known way to soften the big nail (the most problematic area of ​​the foot) is to use hot baths with herbs. In practice, both herbal and one-component compositions can be used.

The most famous solutions that have additional antiseptic properties are decoctions of chamomile, thyme, sage and fresh milkweed.

Acid cuticle softeners

Acid keratolytics have a mild, caring effect. Produced on the basis of fruit, lactic or salicylic acids.

They can combine several options in one composition. It is worth noting that lactic acid has a whitening effect.

The higher the Ph value, the milder the acid softener. Typically the working range of these products is Ph 2-4. The exposure time of the acid agent is 2-3 minutes. The instructions must be strictly followed. It is recommended to use the product once every 7-10 days to keep your hands in well-groomed condition.

Healthy Cuticle Oil Recipe

• Having a recipe for a useful product for daily treatment of the skin of your hands is important not only for their beauty, but also for their health.
• By treating the cuticle and nail plate with oils, you prevent the development of many diseases, fungus and other problematic complications
• In addition, you nourish the nail plate, which makes it lighter, healthier and more beautiful, as well as stronger.
• The most useful recipe for strengthening the cuticle is considered to be a recipe where almond and apricot kernel oils are mixed in equal proportions. This recipe can also be varied with a few drops of geranium and rose essential oils. By treating your skin daily, you have a beneficial effect on it and get a beautiful manicure.

Urea keratolytics

Urea keratolytics are considered the safest modern means for removing cuticles.

They have a strong softening and moisturizing effect on the skin. Can be used for diabetic conditions, vascular problems, after chemotherapy. Urea or urea is suitable for those clients who have contraindications for the use of acid and alkaline softeners. It has a slight analgesic effect, reduces irritation, soothes the skin and accelerates exfoliation of the epidermis.

Urea-based keratolytics do not disturb the Ph balance, so their use does not require neutralizers.

Why does the cuticle become dry?

Dry and flaky cuticles around your nails can be caused by many factors. This includes insufficient care and an incorrectly done manicure - when the master cuts the skin around the nails too deeply. Cuticle peeling is also a result of nail biting habit.

In addition, cuticles can become dry due to exposure of our hands to chemical cleansers we use at home or at work, as well as extreme temperatures and strong winds. For some girls, this may be caused by a natural tendency to dry skin, allergies or skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis or eczema. Hard and dry cuticles may be a sign of a vitamin A, E, or B deficiency.

In autumn and winter, do not forget to wear gloves so as not to expose your hands and cuticles to the adverse effects of external factors.

Alternative mineral and oil removers

Mineral softeners do not contain aggressive components that destroy protein and irritate the skin.

In the list of ingredients you can see calcium, magnesium, zinc in combination with sea or mineral water. Such compositions are suitable not for removal, but for softening the cuticle for the purpose of further cutting with scissors or forceps.

Oil removers also do not remove rough skin and pterygium, but intensively soften and care for the epidermis. Apply for 10-15 minutes, then the skin is pushed back with a pusher or an orange stick, and cut off with scissors or cutters.

These products are alternative and are used for well-groomed hands when performing maintenance procedures at home.

Cuticle care at home

Use oil

You should apply oil to your nails and cuticles daily and the more often the better. By caring for the periungual skin, you will soon notice that the cuticle has become elastic and fits more tightly to the nail. The growth of the nail plate accelerates, and the surface is leveled.

American Dadi'oil, in our opinion, is the best nutritional product. There are no analogues on the market yet. By the way, all KrasotkaPro employees use it. Read more about its properties in the article Review of natural dadi oil for nail and cuticle care.

Hand creams

In addition to cuticle oils, it is worth using moisturizing hand creams. Ideally, the cream should be applied after each hand washing, but realizing that this is not an easy task for a modern woman, we recommend thoroughly rubbing it into the skin and cuticles at night. It will have time to be absorbed well and in the morning the skin will be sufficiently moisturized. Before leaving the house during the cold season, always apply nourishing cream.

Spa treatments for hands

Paraffin therapy not only has a beneficial effect on the skin, but also moisturizes the cuticle well. There are products for both hot and cold paraffin therapy, as well as entire spa sets for hand care. Choose those that contain more plant extracts and vitamins.

Advantages and disadvantages of keratolytics

As with any professional cosmetics, a high concentration of active ingredients leads to pros and cons when used. They also have their own indications and contraindications for use.

Benefits of keratolytics for manicure:

• Fast exposure time 1-3 minutes;
• Effective removal or softening of the cuticle;
• Painless effect;
• Slowing cuticle growth;
• Versatility: can be used in both manicure and pedicure;
• Cost-effective, especially when using liquid formulas;
• Can be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding;
• Long-term hydration in the case of urea keratolytics;
• The ability to select economical means in each type of keratolytics.

Disadvantages and contraindications:

• The possibility of an allergic reaction to the components of the composition;
• The inability to use removers in the presence of even the smallest injuries and cracks on the surface of the skin;
• It is necessary to additionally use a neutralizer for alkaline and acid keratolytics;
• If used incorrectly and not according to instructions, chemical burns of varying degrees may occur.

Review of the best products

You can purchase such products at almost any cosmetic store. Be sure to check the expiration date and original packaging before purchasing. The composition will be an important criterion, so buy the safest and most nutrient-enriched gels.

Severina

The cuticle remover from this company is available in two versions. The first contains vitamin E and lemon oil, which gently cleanse and soften rough skin and hangnails. The second type of product provides mild protection thanks to lanolin and vitamin C.

The cost of a 50 ml tube of gel is 370 rubles.

Severina.

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Sally Hansen Gel Cuticle Remover

A professional product with additional benefits. An excellent composition with additional caring components will help to carefully remove the cuticle without damaging the nail structure.

There are two versions of the product: with aloe, camellia and chamomile extracts, as well as with natural jojoba oil, wheat and kiwi proteins. It comes in an original tube and is used very sparingly.

The cost of such a product is on average from 270 rubles.

Sally Hansen Gel Cuticle Remover.

Arabia

The professional product in this series provides gentle peeling and cuticle removal. The plant extracts included in the composition help to carefully care for the skin of the hands, strengthening the structure of the nail plate.

The price of a 50 ml tube is 470 rubles and above.

Arabia.

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De Lacroix

This product is ideal for effectively removing and slowing down the growth of cuticles. Comfortable application and the ability to choose among three existing options will make your manicure hassle-free.

You can buy the remover for 250 rubles (100 ml).

De Lacroix.

Solomeya

A professional product with an alkaline composition and maximum impact - only 30 seconds. Helps remove cuticles and prevents the appearance of hangnails.

A bottle of 50 ml will cost approximately 315 rubles, and if you purchase 100 ml, it will cost approximately 625 rubles.

Solomeya.

Doctor Derm

A unique gentle formula helps remove cuticles without harming the nail plate. Does not cause burning or discomfort when applied, helps maintain skin elasticity.

The cost of the product is approximately 210 rubles per 20 ml.

You can purchase a large format of 100 ml for 850 rubles.

Doctor Derm.

CND Cuticle Eraser

Gentle composition and gentle effect on the nail plate. It contains useful components to soften the cuticle and prevent the appearance of hangnails.

A small tube of the product (14 ml) can be purchased from 300 rubles.

A larger format remover of 50 ml will cost from 680 rubles and above.

CND Cuticle Erase.

Belweder

Hypoallergenic composition and ease of use. Contains glycerin and aloe leaf extract. Gently nourishes and removes excess skin, does not cause discomfort during use.

The average cost is 170 rubles per 8 ml tube.

Belweder.

Expert

The optimal composition of this mild product will help remove the cuticle without harming the structure of the nail plate.

There are three great formulations to choose from: with vitamin E, Dead Sea minerals, as well as lanolin and vitamin C.

The price for a small bottle of 11.5 ml will be only 300 rubles.

Expert.

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Popular remover brands

Softening agents can be universal, for manicure and pedicure, or used only when treating hands. This is usually indicated on the label and dictated by the intensity of the components in the composition. The skin of the hands is thinner and softer, and the feet require more active drugs.

The most popular brands of removers:

• Sagitta: acid, alkaline and urea options to choose from;
• Urea based Inki;
• Biogel from Derma Pharms, UK
• Salu;
• Be Natural;
• Gewol;
• Severina.

Therapeutic baths with essential oils

Essential oils today are used quite widely in cosmetology, in particular, for pedicures and manicures. The most famous oils are lavender, tea tree, orange, rosemary.

These oil solutions contain a high concentration of phytoncides that have an antiseptic effect. If the temperature and duration are observed (the normal duration of one procedure is 15 minutes), the nail plate quickly becomes soft and pliable, which allows you to easily trim the outer edge.

The advantages of choosing this technique include the positive vasodilating effect that oil solutions have. Improving blood circulation in the skin of the feet is the key to healthy feet for every person.

How to do a manicure with keratolytic: three techniques

All three types of keratolytics are used in manicure - acid, alkaline and urea.

The most popular are acidic options. They quickly loosen the cuticle and facilitate its complete removal.

Urea removers should be selected taking into account the percentage of urea. Up to 10% is a universal remedy, 10-20% is professional preparations for salon specialists, 20-30% urea is an aggressive composition used to perform pedicures on difficult and neglected feet.

Alkaline keratolytics in their pure form are used less often on the hands, as they have an aggressive composition and greatly dry out the skin. Most often, masters give preference to removers that combine acids and alkalis at the same time. This composition allows you to quickly remove the cuticle, while having a gentle effect and caring for the skin.

Keratolytics are used in three manicure techniques: classic combined, hardware combined and European unedged in dry and wet versions. Let's look at each technique step by step.

Reviews

• Julia. I first learned about the existence of such products during my first manicure session. The master struggled with my nails for a long time and advised me to use a pencil to soften them. Now I will try to carry out the procedure as often as possible.
• Ksenia . European manicure is my weakness. I trust only professional products in the hands of experienced professionals. I don’t like taking care of my nails myself; it turns out badly and not very neatly.
• Alice. I recently purchased cuticle softening oil from Mavala as a gift for my mother (she has very bad fingernails). She is very pleased, the result is noticeable after 2 weeks. I will definitely buy it for myself.

Classic edged manicure using a combination technique with remover

Can be performed using dry or wet technique with soaking in water.

Execution steps:

• The coating is removed from the nails, the length and shape are adjusted;
• Using a pusher or an orange stick, gently push back the skin along the perimeter of the nail;
• A keratolytic agent is applied to the cuticle or pterygium area using a brush or applicator nozzle;
• The product is kept for 1-3 minutes according to the instructions;
• For mild softeners, you can additionally soak your hands in warm water immediately after applying the product. Time ratio: wait 1-2 minutes after application, plus 2-3 minutes of immersion in water (the example is relevant for Biogel from Derma Pharms);
• The product is washed off with water using a wet technique;
• When dry processing, the cuticle is wiped with micellar water or plain water using a cotton pad, and then a neutralizer is applied for alkaline and acidic versions of the drug;
• Using a pusher or an orange stick, the remaining softened skin is removed and lifted. You can help yourself with a damp cloth;
• The open and raised cuticle is cut with scissors or cuticle nippers;
• The nail is treated with a dehydrator and primer;
• Coating is being applied;
• The skin around the nail is treated with a caring gel or oil.

How to use cuticle remover

Using cuticle removers is very simple. You will need a special oil (such as coconut or shea butter), a cuticle remover solution, and warm water.

Usage algorithm:

1. Clean the nail plate from varnish and other contaminants.
2. Then prepare a nail bath with warm water and herbal infusions. Steam each palm for 5-10 minutes.
3. Dry your hands, and then apply a thin layer of the selected remover to the dry cuticle. Depending on which remover you have chosen in terms of composition, the composition is kept on the skin for a certain time.
4. There is no need to rinse the remover with water. You should use an orange or bamboo stick to move the cuticle down, and then use a metal spatula to remove the softened layer of skin.
5. Remove any remaining product using a paper napkin. If you used an acidic product, then walk over your nails with micellar water.
6. Apply cuticle oil to clean and dry nails. This will help soothe the skin and start the cell regeneration process.

This algorithm is only suitable if you use a remover for an unedged manicure.

However, this drug can also be used for the classic edged type of manicure:

1. First, clean the nail plate from any remaining decorative coating and dirt.
2. Then give the nail plates the desired shape.
3. Disinfect the cuticle area with a suitable preparation.
4. Apply the remover to the area covered by the cuticle, as well as to the side rollers.
5. As soon as the drug softens the keratinized layers of the skin, remove the pterygium and push the softened skin away from the nail plate.
6. Overgrown areas will subsequently need to be cut off using nail scissors or special cuticle clippers.

Hardware manicure using combi technique with remover

This combination of techniques is not very popular, but is sometimes used by masters. The device is used to remove coating or extended nails, as well as to lift and open the cuticle. After this, a remover or keratolytic agent comes into effect in combination with scissors or nippers.

Subsequence:

• Apply remover to the raised cuticle and wait for the time recommended according to the instructions;
• Using a damp cloth, remove part of the softened skin and pterygium, remove the remaining keratolytic;
• Use scissors to cut the cuticle;
• Apply Nail Prep degreasing and drying agent and decorative coating;
• We treat the skin with oil or care composition.

Combined manicure - what is it, stages of implementation

Compresses with aloe and butter

Another interesting way to soften a nail for cutting. The basis of such a compress is aloe juice and butter in equal percentages. The presence of a large amount of fats and aloe plant serum makes this composition an indispensable assistant in everyday life and cosmetology.

A compress applied to the toes for 8-10 hours thoroughly removes rough areas of the stratum corneum, softens the cuticle and the nail plate itself.

Milv Goodbye Cuticles

How to remove cuticles for those with sensitive skin? In this case, we can recommend using the cosmetic product Milv Goodbye Cuticles. The hypoallergenic product quickly softens and dissolves dead skin. The gel simultaneously moisturizes and softens the skin, so the cuticle can be pushed back in just twenty seconds.

This product has a gel-like form. It is completely odorless and has a water base with the addition of glycerin. The composition contains antiseptic substances. After the procedure is completed, the remaining gel is removed with a napkin, after which the hands are washed in running water and lubricated with nourishing cream.

Oils for unedged manicure

Cuticle oil is another effective remedy in the arsenal of modern women. With their help you can easily get rid of cuticles. The advantages of this product include the fact that it can be used for microcracks and inflammation around the nail. Oils not only nourish but also protect our hands. When using them, the skin is very easily removed, after which its growth slows down. The skin becomes more elastic and elastic, thereby preventing the appearance of hangnails.

Which cuticle oil should you choose? We suggest you pay attention to the following products:

1. Jess nail Cyticul oil. The oil softens rough skin while delivering nutrients to it. With regular use, after a while the skin becomes more tender and well-groomed, and the nail plate becomes stronger. Apply the oil with massage movements that increase blood flow. You should not use such products more than twice a month.

2. ORLY Cuticle oil. Many women leave good comments about this product. It contains cherry extract and orange flowers. All this allows you to saturate the skin with useful microelements and vitamins, as a result of which it becomes tender and soft. The use of this oil allows you to eliminate the appearance of hangnails and slow down the growth of the cuticle. In addition, the composition of the product has a beneficial effect on the nail plate, due to which it becomes stronger and grows faster.

3. Inki is another wonderful product that has a natural composition. It contains olive and castor oils, as well as propolis. Thanks to this, the skin becomes softer and the cuticle grows much slower. The product has a positive effect on the nail plate, strengthening it.